Pentel Graph Gear 1000 Automatic Drafting Pencil, 0.5mm Lead Size, Brushed Metal Barrel, 1 Each (PG1015A)


Pentel

List Price: $21.99
Price: $14.50
You Save: $7.49 (34%)

Product Details

  • Higher-class drafting pencil for general and technical writing
  • Dual-ways retractor advances and retracts tip for easy use
  • Refillable with Pentel Wonderful Hi-Polymer Lead and Z2-1 eraser

Product Description


Customer Reviews

Renders great ideas to paper
Who would think in this age of futuristic computers, super smart phones, and gorgeous 3-D CAD software that a drafting-style mechanical pencil still receives great reviews with phrases such as, "long term relationship", "I love these pencils", "pleasure to use", and "just feels right the very moment you take this pencil"?

It was a good purchase. Before I even drew my first line, I noticed right away that the pencil has a distinctive balance point just above the knurled-metal finger-grip section. The pencil is shaped with an extended tip that allows me to see exactly where the line is being drawn. Styling is high-tech engineering with a brushed metal barrel. Although pencils with other lead diameters are available, the 0.5 mm pencil is my choice when compared to the 0.3 mm (draws almost invisible lines) and the 0.7 mm pencils.

The last time I wrote about a pencil (wood #2), it was in a college creative writing class years ago. I think I received a C- on that assignment. If I had written about the Pentel Graphgear 1000, maybe I would have received an A+. Why? The Pentel Graphgear 1000 is a wonderfully crafted drafting-style mechanical pencil that renders great ideas into sketches and encourages creative doodles in an almost magical way.
The Last Pencil You'll Ever Need.
Excellent pencil. Comfortable to write with an has an ingenious design. I've used many mechanical pencils, and with each one I'd always end up wasting lead by snapping off bits [of lead] when the pencil wasn't in use. This pencil has a feature which retracts the lead when you open the pocket clip (to presumably put in your pocket). Well worth the price, and would recommend!
Great pencil but some caveats
After getting tired of pencils that would always wear out in a couple of months, I decided to finally buy a quality one, and this seemed to be it. Yes the outer construction is aluminum which does make it rugged, and the grip is just "grippy" enough so your fingers don't slide. The retractable tip is a very needed and useful feature, as it keeps accidental damage down, and makes it easier to carry since it doesn't poke into anything. Every click of the lead advance only lets a very little bit of lead through, and it holds it very well, so you can press down quite hard without worrying about it slipping back in or breaking.

The thing that really makes me mad about this pencil though is that, besides not shipping with at least a sealed package, for costing $14.50 the inner tube, which is responsible for extracting the metal tip and holding and advancing the lead, is PLASTIC, and since the clip which locks the tip out fits into a slot in that plastic tube to hold it out, every time you retract the tip it eats away ever so slightly at that plastic tube, so depending on how heavy use you give it it might not last a year or so. It would have cost them maybe $0.02 more to put a little metal reinforcement piece on the top of the slot, or maybe $0.10 more to make the inner barrel out of aluminum.

If you can find this thing cheaper, maybe $8-$9, then it really fits the price, but at $14.50 it is a bit overpriced.
Wastes Lead and Very Uncomfortable
Once you get down to about the last 1/4 of stick of lead you are using, the tip fails to hold the lead in place (so that when you try to write, the lead is pushed back into the pencil). This forces you to waste 1/4 of every stick of lead - which is not only an annoying inconvenience, but also is expensive. This should not happen for a 15 dollar pencil. Furthermore, although many may disagree, I found the pencil was exhausting to use because it was so heavy and unbalanced. Thus, looks and nifty features aside, this pencil fails at the most basic functions of a mechanical pencil.
Comfortable well built mechanical pencil
Quality built mechanical pencil. I like the fact that it's made out of metal. The grip is knurled for traction but not so much that it fatigues the hand. The retractable tip is a good feature both for protecting the person from a mishap and also the device from breaking.

Super Hi-Polymer Automatic Pencil Lead Refills, .5MM Fine, #2B, 12/Tube PENC5052B


Pentel

List Price: $1.02

Product Details

  • Pentel's Wonderful Hi-Polymer lead is specially formulated for improved sinew.
  • The Tally1 selling refill lead in the USA.
  • It's stronger, more regalia, smoother and lasts longer than any other brand.

Product Description


Customer Reviews

Great Leads!
These are the best writing leads I've ever used: they write the most readable lines and yet are hard enough to stand up to a heavy hand.

BIC Mechanical Pencil, Medium Point (0.7 mm), 10 Pencils


BIC Corporation

List Price: $4.99
Price: $2.99
You Save: $2.00 (40%)

Product Details

  • disintegrate-resistant and splinter resistant
  • Three full-stretch #2 0.7mm leads
  • Provides compose-out equivalent to 2 1/2 wood case pencils

Product Description


Customer Reviews

Good product
I'm not really sure what all to say about these. They are good, functional mechinical pencils. Each has a good eraser, with spare refills stored underneath. And available at a good price.
If you need mechnical pencils, this is the product you're looking for.
Bic Mechanical Pencil .07 mm 10 pack (MPP101-Blk)
These are good pencils, with a few refills of lead located beneath each eraser, and they are not that expensive.

How do they get the lead (or graphite) inside of a lead pencil?

Do the drill the hole in the wood then pour the lead inside then chop it up into pencil sized pieces or is there some sort of pulping process involved?


The Master Pencil Maker takes a piece of graphite that is the exact length of the pencil. He walks back, several yards and then runs, full speed, at the empty pencil shell. He must aim the lead, very carefully so that it enters the hole absolutely straight.

This is not easy to do. That is why the Pencil Maker must undergo four years of university, two years of residency, a ten year apprentice program, and, at least, five more years as a journeyman Pencil Maker before he can retain the title of Master Pencil Maker.

Some pencil companies cheat, by making the pencil wood in two halves, with a groove down the middle. The cylinder of graphite is put in the groove and the other half of the wood is glued to the first.

A true, pure artist will NEVER use one of these pencils, prefering the hand of a Master Pencil Maker's touch. Both type of pencils work equally well, but, emotionally and esthetically, it just isn't the same.


ITS M-A-G-I-C ! MAGIC


Yes, a pencil is not made out a solid piece of wood, the pulp is formed into shape around the lead.


the lead is placed into the groove of on half of the pencil the the other half is joined by glue, they showed this process on playschool not so long ago.

How do I stop pencil lead from smearing?

I am a lefty when I write and draw. As I write, pencil lead crumbs smear on the left side of my left hand, from my wrist to the tip of my pinky. I constantly have to blow (literally) to get the lead crumbs off of my paper and prevent SOME of the smearing, but it still occurs. Is there any way to stop this from happening? I really need it to stop when drawing, or it ruins the picture.


I am also a left handed artist and have been doing artwork for over forty years. When I first started, I had the same problem you're having now. I found that by resting my hand on a blank piece of paper on my drawing, it reduces the amount of smearing. Try it! I think you'll agree. Hope I helped you out alittle. Good luck and keep drawing.

How can I stop pencil lead from getting smeared all over the side of my hand?

I am right handed, and whenever I write or draw something, at the end my side of my hand is all grey from the pencil lead. Anyway to stop this from happening? Thanks.


I know of a way to do it without having to use another piece of paper. You just simply draw starting at the top and staying more to your left until you're finished with that side, keeping clear of the right side. That way, when you get to your right -hand side, everything will be clear and you won't have to go back to your left and worry about getting lead on you.

Is it ok to sketch/draw with a lead pencil instead of a regular pencil?

I don't know why but I hate drawing with regular pencils...I seem to do better with lead pencils.


The only problem with using "lead" pencils (I think you mean mechanical?) is that sometimes the lead will scratch the surface of the paper, so if you try to color it with colored pencils, anything you tried to erase will probably show through. I recommend transferring to a new sheet of paper if you plan on coloring something you drew with mechanical pencils.

I got stabbed with a lead pencil about 20 years ago and the piece of lead is still in my face. is this safe?

I got stabbed with a lead pencil about 20 years ago and the piece of lead is still in my face. is this safe? I spoke to my doctor about it but they just ignored it.
does anyone know if it is dangerous?


I doubt your in any harm. My sister stabbed me in the back of the neck with a pencil, when I was a kid, about 15 years ago, and I still have some in there. (great sister right?)
If it's been 20 years and you havent noticed anything "off" in that time I wouldnt worry about it.
I dont think penciles were made out of lead at that time anyway, and even if they were I dont think the small amount thats in your face could do any damage.

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First there was a quill

When I was a microscopic girl, which was a very wish time ago, I accomplished to write the ABCs with a out of the blue a trim, stubby bad pencil with a very thick lead. I don't think those pencils ever saw the tolerable of day again commercially, until they were acclimated to to mark an X on an selection ballot.

Grade 2 saw the introduction of dream of, slim, yellow pencils - without an eraser on the end - and thus the children felt they were entering an full-grown world. After all, wasn't that what the grownup clerks in the stores against when they wrote your edge in a book?

The next rites of cruise came in Downgrade pass 4 when we had stopped printing each communication separately and were encouraged to use "weld printing" - an near the start introduction to longhand. Then for an hour a week, we were issued a sort out pen which was dipped into an inkwell on the more recent capital letters right pass out side of our desks. This was not too useful for left-handers.

What a indulgence it was, to be honoured with the criticize of filling the inkwells with that stinky, brown-indecent liquid! The guru filled the can for the chosen apprentice, but it was the student's reprehend to carefully give the spout at the proper spot and not over-fill the well.

Composition with a straight pen was a fastidious task, and only sophisticated calligraphers today would even hound. The nib either contained too much ink and would smidgin on the poor rank, post-war newsletter, or was too dry and only made hen-scratches on the line.

Our parents had 'genesis' pens and I think about I know why that name was chosen. These pens had a rubber bladder internal with a lever on the fa. The pen nib was placed into a starch of ink while the lever was raised. This fight caused the bladder to deflate. When the lever was depressed, the bladder filled with ink. Take one full bladder of ink, a pen with the nib pointing upwards and then collect the lever. Voila! A well of ink! (You may have guessed that this intricate research was based on physical experience.)

Array

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